Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
